The most challenging and technically demanding alpine course offered by Harim-Mountains; This activity will fine tune and improve existing abilities for its participants.
More about the activity:
Through “learning by doing”- we will undertake some serious alpine ascents at PD-AD+ level*
The advanced alpinism course is addressed for students who took part in the past in alpine climbing, steep ice climbing and trad climbing.
Activity's goals:
- Improving speed and efficiency when moving together on alpine rock- fast and light
- Improving speed and efficiency when moving together on snow and ice- fast and light
- Safe and professional route planning and execution of a complex route in the high mountains
- Route funding and orientation along the three phases of approach, on-route and descent
* The mentioned timetable is exemplary and may vary due to conditions, ability of the participants, safety & weather limitations.
Day 1- we will meet at 17:00 in Chamonix- the exact hotel’s address will be sent to you a week before the activity – for a briefing and a gear check.
Day 2- Alpine rock day- we will take the cable car from La Praz in the valley to Aiguilles Rouges- where superb gneiss is abandoned- and climb a classical alpine-rock route concentrating on efficient & safe movement in high alpine terrain. At the end of the day we will head back down to the valley and will spend the night in our lodge.
As an alternative we can start from Plan del Aiguille and climb one of the classical rock routes on the Aiguilles de Chamonix from the middle station.
Day 3- we will complete the ascent to a high mountain hut- both Turino or Cosmique huts are candidates as well as the swiss Trient hut. In the huts proximity we will climb a mixed ridge
Possible routes: Petite Aiguille Verte, Aiguilles d’Entreves, Aiguilles Marbrees
Day 4- a steep ice climbing day- the north face of the Tour Rond is our goal for today- a 450 meter route with steep ice in varied angles- it’s a major undertaking and a great “play ground” to hone our ice climbing skills.
Day 5- a classical ridge climbing such as the Rochefort or the integral traverse of Aiguille de Marbree.
Day 6- a day of a major snow and ice route on the Triangle de Tacul.
Day 7- Climbing the Cosmique ridge and going down to the valley- courses end in Chamonix anytime between 15:30-17:30.
The activity includes:
Improving speed and efficiency when moving together on alpine rock- fast and light
Improving speed and efficiency when moving together on snow and ice- fast and light
Safe and professional route planning and execution of a complex route in the high mountains
Route funding and orientation along the three phases of approach, on-route and descent
Fitness and technical pre-requirements:
A very physically demanding course- a high level of physical fitness is required- as well as solid alpinism experience and rock climbing experience- some days we will be “on the go” for more than 8 hours hut-to-hut, in high elevation while carrying alpine gear and back packs.
We will match the routes difficulty to the level and wishes of the participants- however- we do require a minimal level of rock climbing experience of V UIAA, experience in lead climb of steep ice (WI III) and high motivation. Past participants in our alpine semester or alpine ice climbing will find this activity attractive.
More about the fitness and technical levels required for the different activities
Dates:
June I: start 12.06.2016 end 18.06.2016
June II: start 19.06.2016 end 25.06.2016
Location:
Meeting point in Chamonix, the course will take place in Chamonix (France)/Wallis (Switzerland) or Aosta (Italy) depending on conditions and weather
A typical program
(The activity might change dramatically due to weather change, conditions or the participant’s abilities)
Day 1- meeting in Chamonix at 17:00, a course briefing and gear check
Day 2- alpine-rock day - multi-pitch in Aiguilles Rouges
Day 3- ascent to a high mountain hut- both Turino or Cosmique huts are candidates as well as the swiss Trient hut
Day 4- a steep ice climbing day- the north face of the Tour Rond is our goal for today
Day 5- a classical ridge climbing such as the Rochefort or the integral traverse of Aiguille de Marbree, and a traverse to the Cosmique hut via Halbroner cable car
Day 6- a day of a major snow and ice route on the Triangle de Tacul
Day 7- Climbing the Cosmique ridge and going down to the valley- courses end
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