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Mont Blanc Trois Monts

A shorter and more intensive version of our Mont Blanc ascent program.
No dependency on hut bookings- set dates early in the season.
An acclimatization activity before attempting the Mont Blanc.
Guiding ratio max 1:1 on the Mont Blanc.

Mont Blanc Trois Monts

About the activity

The “big brother” of our Mont Blanc in 6 days program. The route, which used to be a Mont Blanc “normal way” from the French side, is now significantly steeper and more challenging than its counter part, the” Gouter ridge”. The warly summer season is usually the preferred time as the crevasses on the Tacul flank become unpassable relatively early in the season. Because of the challenging character of the route, we offer it to clients with previous alpine experience for example our “Swiss classics” or "Classical Mountaineering course" veterans and we guide it in a 1:1 ratio.
The activity includes:
Glacier travel ‎
Acclimatisation
Training routes with moderate difficulty rock and ice
Mt. Blanc ascent
Exemplary Timetable: (The mentioned timetable is exemplary and may vary due to conditions, ability of the participants, safety & weather limitations.)
Day 1 Saturday- Meeting at 17:00 in Chamonix– for a briefing and a gear check.
Day 2 Sunday- Crossing through the Mt. Blanc tunnel to the Italian side and from the Helbronner station 3,462m a day route such as the Aiguilles Marbrees 3,535m traverse. Overnight at the Turin hut 3,100m.
Day 3 Monday- Another summit- depending on conditions there are many options to choose from- and descent to the valley for another hotel night before heading up the next day.
Day 4 Tuesday- With the Aiguille du Midi gondola we reach the Cosmique hut. As of today the guiding is being done on a 1:1 basis.
Day 5 Wednesday- A Mont Blanc 4,810m ascent and descent**- after a short descent to the Col du Midi 3,520m- we start to ascend the north flank of the Mt. Blanc du Tacul 4,187m.
In some years the flank is in a good and some years in a challenging state- however always steep and crevassed. After the Col Maudit, the north flank of the Mt. Maudit is threatened by seracs and steep. The ascent to the col du Mont Maudit 4,345m is sometimes equipped with fixed ropes. The descent to the “corridor” under the Brenva col- is the last exposed section before the Mont Blanc 4,810m summit ridge.
For the descent we usually need to decide between two main options- for a fast team on a cold day a traverse is an option- descending from the Gouter side and back to Chamonix- the more common option is to go back the same way we climbed up and with the Aiguille du Midi cable car back to Chamonix. This will be decided by your guides closer to the ascent date.
For clients that would like to traverse the Mont Blanc already in an early stage, we offer to book an extra night in the Gouter hut, hence extending the program in one day.
Please note, depending on the season, the temperature and the conditions the Mt. Blanc Trois Monts** route, might be threatened by crevasses, avalanches, seracs and in a case of a traverse also rockfall. If a Mt. Blanc ascent via Tois Monts route is in our opinion too risky or unsuitable, we will offer an alternative plan based in the Chamonix/Aosta/Wallis area for no additional charges! (There might be uncalculated costs to the clients due to an area change, extra lift usage and other hut bookings).

Fitness level & difficulty

Price and details

Dates and bookings